Monday, November 15, 2010

Abacadabra No.14 Trousers for Boys

I bought this pattern about a year and a half ago, but when I looked at the instructions I just stuffed them back in the envelope! (I was so disappointed at the time, I just love this style.) I hadn’t started sewing Burda Style magazine patterns back then and so was really put off by not having the typical details and diagrams of the big pattern makers.

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After making several Burda magazine patterns this year I thought I’d be able to tackle this one. So I traced it out last month and decided to do a muslin with some of C’s (my husband’s) old jeans that had ripped out in various places. The pattern is actually a great idea if you’re going to be making pants from various fabrics as it consists of 3 and 4 pieces for both the back and front. I used some cute yellow cotton print for the zipper fly and the loops at the back. Here’s a couple of pics; I haven’t put a waistband on yet as I’ve run out of denim!

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The pattern actually has 2 large pockets on the back that line up at the side seams with the front pocket top and bottom seams. Since I didn’t have enough fabric pieces, and this is basically a muslin, I thought I’d leave them off. When I make the next pair I’ll definitely put them on, it’s a really nice design detail.

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The pattern was actually pretty straight forward, despite the english translation and lack of diagrams. And this was the first fly I’ve sewn in over 15 years! Next time I’ll construct the pieces a little differently: assemble all the front and back pieces using the 5-Thread overlock stitch on my serger and then top-stitch everything with a thick thread in my sewing machine. That way you don’t need to keep switching the thread between seaming and top-stitching.

I’m really looking forward to finishing these pants, I hope O likes them!

Friday, October 29, 2010

Burda 04-2009-110 Top

Last spring I found a beautiful RTW dress. I loved it! But it was retailing for about $225, and I’m not in any position to justify that at this point in time!

Great summer dress I tried on in 240 Sparks. Found similar pattern in Burda Magazine 04-2009, #110

I’d seen a pattern on the Burda magazine website, the photo is gorgeous and really struck me. When I couldn’t find it anywhere in town I became desperate! I tried the Burda site, on their forum, and on PR asking if anyone would sell their issue. Two sewists on PR offered to trace it for me, which I think is incredibly nice of them, and soon received the pattern in the mail. This is it, similar to the RTW, and also very nice.

Burda 04/2009 #110, view B (top)Burda 04/2009 #110, view B (top)

This top is really a muslin, but it worked out OK in the end. With the shaping detail on the front it would probably look much better in a solid colour. But the fabric was just right, it has a nice drape and is quite light.

I had to do some major alterations for petite sizing, and a small high bust. Some of the other reviewers on PR also found that this top has a rather low “plunging” neckline. I shifted the neckline opening up by 1” along with the under-bust seam, and so had to insert 1” to the top of the lower part.

BWOF 04/2009 #110, view B (top) details of garment/pattern piecesBWOF 04/2009 #110, view B (top) details of garment/pattern pieces

With the fabric being so stretchy, I had to increase the back darts and took in another 1” on each, going up into the upper back. The front neckline was still a tiny bit too low, so I fiddled with the facings a bit.

BWOF 04/2009 #110, view B (top) details of garment/pattern piecesBWOF 04/2009 #110, view B (top) details of garment/pattern pieces

I’ll make another one in the future, and maybe even a dress. But a solid colour would really look smashing!