I’ve been seeing a lot of very nice Colette Sorbettos, for ages, and only recently decided to hop on the band wagon. And I have to say, I’m glad I did, as it’s a great little top!
Last month I printed out the pattern intending to make some before the warm weather hits, and then I saw that PR is doing a contest for projects using no more than one yard of fabric. That did it. I got off my arse and started cutting!
Right, so to make things reeeally difficult I decided to start with this piece of purple polyester fabric (not sure, it came from the remnant bin) that was too small for anything else. I thought I’d try to squeeze a Sorbetto out of it. No kidding, there wasn’t much, a scant 30 inches in length and 44 inches wide. Needless to say I did not incorporate the front central pleat. It. Was. Tight! Notice how I had to overlap the fabric in the center? It came out all right, but I really had to measure carefully in order to fit the lower edges.
Because I didn’t have much fabric to begin with, I had to piece together the remains (in 4 rectangles) in order to get a 10x10 inch block to make the bias tape. There are quite a lot of seams in the tape! The Colette tutorial is great by the way, the one for continuous bias tape.
What I did right:
- Got the pattern!
- Cut a size 6 bust and graded out to a size 9 waist/hip.
- Left off the center pleat (well, I had no choice, but it would have been nice to have)
- Used self bias tape (that I was able to eek it out of the remains!)
- Serged the shoulder and side edges before assembling.
After stitching the front and back together, but before finishing the edges with bias tape, I tried it on and found it a little large/open at the lower edges of the armholes. So now we get to what
I did wrong needs tweaking next time!
- I took in the shoulder seams about 5 cm. In hindsight that was too much as I hadn’t accounted for the effect of sewing on the bias tape: it really tightened up the openings.
- I sewed the bias tape on as binding, which as it turns out is the wrong way. Instead, it should have been sewn on as a bias facing.
- The shoulders are a little too wide for me (petite frame!) and slide off a bit.
- It keeps sliding backwards, a problem I have with MANY things, so a forward neck tilt/rounded back alteration is in order.
- The bust darts are a bit low, they’ll need to be raised.
- And lastly, I didn’t mark the ends of the darts so they ended up a little long and end right ON my bust point!
There are 3 more pieces of fabric waiting to be turned into Sorbettos. So, I’ve decided to just step back and make a real muslin to get the fit right. I might as well.
And, I’m going to fix the armholes on this top as I really like the fabric/colour and it coordinates with a lovely silk/cotton I have plans for soon. Might as well do it, it can’t take *that* long!